The behind-the-scenes advertisement for the Gucci x Dapper Dan Harlem Autumn/Winter 2018–19 collection presents a layered narrative that blends luxury fashion, Harlem culture, and a sense of creative partnership. At first glance, the video positions itself as a celebration of collaboration and cultural recognition, especially as it centers a Black designer who was once shut out of the high fashion world. Using Stuart Hall’s Encoding/Decoding model, we can break down how Gucci, as the encoder, sends out a dominant message of inclusion, progress, and mutual respect. However, through a negotiated reading, we can accept some of these surface-level meanings while also questioning the deeper power dynamics at play—particularly around cultural representation, branding, and control.
In the dominant-hegemonic position, the audience is meant to receive Gucci’s message just as it was encoded: a powerful fashion house is acknowledging Black creativity and giving it a global platform. The setting in Harlem, Dapper Dan’s presence, and the inclusion of Black models are meant to send a clear message of diversity and respect. But a negotiated reading recognizes both the good and the problematic. Yes, it’s significant that a major brand is finally working with a figure like Dapper Dan rather than punishing him for his earlier designs. However, this partnership also benefits Gucci just as much—if not more—than it does Harlem or Dapper Dan himself. The brand is able to use Harlem’s aesthetic and cultural richness as a marketing tool, tapping into an “urban” authenticity that appeals to elite consumers without fully engaging with the deeper socio-political context from which that culture emerged.
Hall reminds us that messages aren’t received in a vacuum—they are interpreted differently depending on the audience’s background and awareness. Through a negotiated lens, we can appreciate the visibility given to Black fashion while still questioning how much control and ownership Harlem actually retains in this narrative. The collaboration appears to elevate a previously excluded voice, but that voice is still operating within a system shaped by corporate priorities. Dapper Dan may now have his name on a Gucci sign, but the terms of the partnership are still decided by the global luxury brand. This isn’t a full shift of power—it’s a strategic inclusion designed to make Gucci appear more progressive and culturally aware.
Furthermore, the ad invites viewers to celebrate Harlem, but does so in a way that removes the complexity of its economic and racial history. The models, stylists, and local creatives involved in the shoot are visually present but largely silent. Their labor and lived experiences are aestheticized and packaged for a global audience, without giving them much say in the story being told. A negotiated reading allows us to admire the beauty and talent on display while also recognizing that what we’re seeing is still a highly curated, branded version of Harlem—not the real, everyday community. Hall’s theory helps us see that meaning is not fixed. The way viewers decode this video depends on their social position, level of media literacy, and awareness of the fashion industry’s history of exclusion and appropriation.
Finally, Hall's framework encourages us to consider how media texts like this ad aren’t just reflective of culture—they shape culture. While Gucci might genuinely intend to be more inclusive, the collaboration still takes place within a capitalist system that prioritizes profit. Representation is used as a branding tool, and cultural exchange becomes a form of commercial strategy. A negotiated reading accepts that this campaign is a step forward compared to past fashion industry practices, but it also questions how deep that change really goes. Is this true empowerment, or is it performance? Who really benefits? Who gets to tell the story—and who is left out?
In conclusion, the Gucci x Dapper Dan campaign is a perfect example of how media texts carry layered meanings. Through Stuart Hall’s Encoding/Decoding theory, and particularly through a negotiated reading, we can hold space for both appreciation and critique. Yes, it’s exciting to see a Harlem legend like Dapper Dan embraced by a brand as big as Gucci—but that celebration shouldn’t stop us from asking important questions about power, profit, and representation. In the end, media like this shows us not just what brands want us to see, but also how culture can be used, reshaped, and even repackaged for mass appeal.
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